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Author Topic: How does one go about creating a wand?  (Read 15648 times)
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Last Login:December 25, 2017, 06:17:47 pm
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Religion: Energy worker with hedgewitch tendencies
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« Reply #12: April 03, 2008, 11:07:03 am »

Any help appreciated, thanks in advance.

I've made a few wands, one for a friend, one for myself and one still waiting to find a home as well as a few staves.  Yeah, I like working with my hands when I can.

When I made the wands I'd already had a little experience trying to use a length of wood and I found it really unsatisfactory.  Primarily because I couldn't get the materials to match the image in my mind.  In retrospect it probably had a great deal to do with using the wrong size piece.  So, I went with copper tubing.

I choose copper tubing because 1) I really like copper and 2) it's easy to use and obtain.  I picked up 3/8" copper tubing at the hardware store and a few 3/8" to 1/2" couplings.  The dimensions I selected were predicated on the fact that the crystals I wanted to use fit inside a 1/2" copper tube fitting but I didn't want to use the 1/2" tubing itself.  It was an aesthetic thing.  Fitting the crystals to the couplings also allows me to remove the crystals if I felt that was necessary without damaging the wand.  In this manner I could create a single wand body and switch out crystals if I felt others were better suited to a particular working.  Not something you can do if your crystals are glued in place.

I cut the tubing to 9" lengths, just because it felt right.  With the couplings in place at either end,  I used some dyed suede leather I had and wrapped it at a 45° angle to the body.  The leather was glued to the copper using just some plain craft glue, IIRC.  I cut the ends of the leather off with an Xacto knife so that they fit flush with the couplings.

I then wrapped copper wire around the body over the leather.  I think I used 10ga copper wire.  I wrapped it a couple of times around the head of the wand behind the coupling and then followed the seam of the leather down the wand.  This had two purposes: 1) it hid the seam from view and 2) it gave me a nice even spiral down the wand.  The effect of the copper wire against the dyed leather was quite beautiful.  I then fit the crystals into the couplings.

That was pretty much it, really.  Looking back over what I've written it may sound rather straight foreward and pretty much unremarkable.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  Making my first wand in this manner was a stream of consciousness working.  I later found that the crystals I selected for my first wand, and the one I still use today, perfectly complemented each other even though I had no idea of their properties at the time I was creating the wand.  The second wand I made I was going to use a rainbow flourite crystal for the tip.  As I was fitting into the coupling it sheared in half on an internal fracture.  I was actually able to ue both halves, one at the tip and one at the base.  That wand pulled together energetically so well it was as if the flourite ran the whole length of the wand.

The only difficulty I've had with this design is cleaning the copper.  It will patina over time and needs to be cleaned to bring back it's luster.  Because it's wrapped over leather you can't use conventional polishes.  I've found that a copper polishing cloth works best.  It has the added benefit of giving you the opportunity to spend some non-ritual time with your wand.

As far as finishing the wood on your wand here's a few tips:

For one of my staves, I used fire instead of stain.  I employed a hand held butane torch with the flame spreader attachement.  I was able to scorch the surface of the staff and then sand it down gently so that it left varicolored streaks in the wood from black to a light beige.  Afterwards I oiled it down with linseed oil.

For another staff I was able to obtain an almost glass like finish by sanding it with progressively finer grit sand paper (I got up to around 800 grit and then switched over to fine steelwool) and then wiping it down with a damp cloth.  Using a damp cloth like that had the effect of swelling fibers in the surface of the wood but in a random fashion so that not all the fibers swelled simultaneously.  I'd let the staff dry for about 15 minutes between wipings and then sand it again.  So, sand it down, wipe with a damp cloth, let it dry and sand it again.  Afterwards, I again finished it with linseed oil.  I had a large can Smiley

That's about all I can think of at the moment.  Here's hoping you find something of use/interest there.

"Then I will tell you a great secret, Captain. Perhaps the greatest of all time. The molecules of your body are the same molecules that make up this station, and the nebula outside, that burn inside the stars themselves. We are starstuff. We are the universe made manifest, trying to figure itself out. As we have both learned, sometimes the universe requires a change of perspective. " ~ Delenn, Babylon 5

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